Aqua Safe - Water Filters and Water Purifier Systems - Australia

Aqua Safe Water Filters Australia

Aqua Safe - Water Filters and Filtration Systems
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Pool Care

So, now you have a pool, the family is enjoying it but you have to constantly maintain it, clean it, add chemicals, test the water and spend a lot of money on chemicals every time you go to the pool shop. It shouldn’t and doesn’t have to be this hard or costly. A little knowledge and the right products can make all the difference.

The following information will give you the knowledge to understand what is going on in your pool so you can be content knowing that tomorrow and the days thereafter your pool will look great and be safe for your family and friends.

Pool Filters

Water is pumped from the pool through a filter and back to the pool again. The pool skimmer box or boxes is where the pump sucks the water from the pool. The filtered water is then returned to the pool through jets or outlets in the walls or floor.

How long you need to run the pump and filter for depends on the size of your swimming pool and the size of your pump and filter. As a general rule of thumb most systems run for 8 hours per day during summer and 3-4 hours per day in winter. Even when running correctly approximately 35% of your pool water still won’t get filtered due to design and economics of pool construction (according to a Victorian Government Fact Sheet). Although your pump and filtration system may filter the entire volume of your pool several times over during the daily running time, there will be dead spots in the pool where the water does not move or circulate well. For this reason all pools can benefit from the use of a clarifier or enviro pool stick. The enviro pool stick in particular can then oxidize and remove bacteria and organic particles from these dead spots and gets constantly moved around the pool by pool cleaners and pool use.

There are two main types of pool filters: Sand and Cartridge.


Sand Filters

Sand filters generally filter down to 20-30 microns while cartridge filters filter a bit smaller down to 15-20 microns (1 micron = 1 millionth of a metre).

Sand filters are the most common type used on pools. With these filters; dirty water is pumped into the top of the filter where it flows down through the sand trapping dirt particles as it goes. Clean water then flows out the bottom back to the pool.

To clean sand filters, the water flow is reversed so it flows from the bottom of the filter to the top taking all the trapped dirt particles out the backwash drain. As the water flows up through the sand it agitates and loosens the dirt particles cleaning the filter.

This process is activated by the BACKWASH VALVE. This valve is located on top of the filter or on pipework attached to the filter. The valve has a number of settings on it including: Filter, Backwash, Rinse, Closed, Recirculate and Waste.

Filter position: is the normal operating position allowing the water to pass through the filter, cleaning it as it goes and returning it to the pool.

Backwash position: reverses the water flow through the filter to dislodge and remove dirt particles trapped during filtration. Most sand filters have a sight glass or clear section of pipe so you can see how dirty or clean the water is. When the water becomes clean backwash can be stopped. The valve can then be moved to the rinse position.

Rinse position: allows the water to flow through the filter in the normal direction but instead of returning to the pool it flows down the drain to clean out any dirt particles left after backwash.

Closed position: stops water from going anywhere. The pool pump should not be operated while the valve is closed as this could result in damage to the pump and associated equipment. Never leave the valve in this position.

Recirculate position: allows the pool water to flow through the valve and back to the pool without going through the filter. This position is mainly used to mix chemicals at a quicker rate.

Waste position: allows the water from the pool to go straight down the drain. This is used during cleaning if the pool floor is exceptionally dirty or the pool has been flocked protecting the filter from excessive loading. It can also be used to drain some water from the pool and lower the water level.

Always shut off the pump when changing the backwash valve position to avoid damaging the pump, valve and pipework.

Cartridge Filters

Cartridge Filters - are a very simple filtration system. They consist of a thin woven material in the shape of a cylinder; this is called the cartridge. The cartridge fits inside a tube or housing with a lid for service and cleaning. The pool water passes through the thin woven material trapping the dirt particles on the outside. Clean water then flows from the centre of the cartridge back to the pool.

To clean cartridge filters, the lid needs to be removed from the housing, the cartridge taken out and hosed down to wash off the dirt. If it cannot be cleaned the cartridge can be soaked in cleaning solution or replaced with a new one.

Cartridge filters can filter as fine or finer than sand filters, they also use less water to clean the filter and take up less space making them just as popular as sand.

When to clean your Filter

Most filters have a pressure gauge on them. As they become blocked, the pump has to work harder to push the water through therefore the pump pressure increases and the pressure gauge reads higher. Once the pressure gets to a certain point the filter needs to be cleaned. If the filter does not have a pressure gauge you will have to keep checking the flow rate or amount of water returning to the pool; as the filter becomes blocked less and less water will be pumped back to the pool.

As a general guide the filter should be cleaned when the pressure gauge reads 30-40 kpa more than when the filter is new and clean i.e. if the pressure gauge reads 30 kpa when the filter cartridge is new, then it should be cleaned when it reads between 60-70 kpa.

What Makes the Pool Dirty and blocks the filters

Baby oils, suntan oils, body fats, hair oils, perspiration and other similar organic particles. These oils bind together with other particles creating a film over the filter surface and making it very difficult to clean the filter. An Enviro Pool Stick will oxidize these oils and any other organics in the water before they get to the filter reducing the maintenance, costs of running the pump and filtration and reduce the need to chemically clean the filter.

The pool stick will also in most cases considerably reduce the chlorine usage and level in the pool.

Skimmer Box

Most pools have a skimmer box which also serves as an intake for the pump and filter system. The skimmer box is designed to collect or skim any rubbish and other floating debris from the pool surface. It is best to skim any debris off before it sinks to the floor and has to be vacuumed.

Skimmer boxes usually contain a “basket” or strainer to collect larger items such as leaves. This basket needs to be removed and cleaned regularly to avoid damage to the pump from a blocked suction line. The pool water level should always be high enough to freely flow into the skimmer box.

Pool cleaners and vacuum devices are also usually connected through the skimmer box.

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When to clean your Filter

Most filters have a pressure gauge on them. As they become blocked, the pump has to work harder to push the water through therefore the pump pressure increases and the pressure gauge reads higher. Once the pressure gets to a certain point the filter needs to be cleaned. If the filter does not have a pressure gauge you will have to keep checking the flow rate or amount of water returning to the pool; as the filter becomes blocked less and less water will be pumped back to the pool.

As a general guide the filter should be cleaned when the pressure gauge reads 30-40 kpa more than when the filter is new and clean i.e. if the pressure gauge reads 30 kpa when the filter cartridge is new, then it should be cleaned when it reads between 60-70 kpa.

What Makes the Pool Dirty and blocks the filters

Baby oils, suntan oils, body fats, hair oils, perspiration and other similar organic particles. These oils bind together with other particles creating a film over the filter surface and making it very difficult to clean the filter. An Enviro Pool Stick will oxidize these oils and any other organics in the water before they get to the filter reducing the maintenance, costs of running the pump and filtration and reduce the need to chemically clean the filter.

The pool stick will also in most cases considerably reduce the chlorine usage and level in the pool.

Skimmer Box

Most pools have a skimmer box which also serves as an intake for the pump and filter system. The skimmer box is designed to collect or skim any rubbish and other floating debris from the pool surface. It is best to skim any debris off before it sinks to the floor and has to be vacuumed.

Skimmer boxes usually contain a “basket” or strainer to collect larger items such as leaves. This basket needs to be removed and cleaned regularly to avoid damage to the pump from a blocked suction line. The pool water level should always be high enough to freely flow into the skimmer box.

Pool cleaners and vacuum devices are also usually connected through the skimmer box.

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Water Quality/Balance

Swimming pools can be the cause of health problems such as ear, nose and throat infections. It is therefore very important to check the quality of the pool water at least weekly if not daily during usage to ensure your family pool is healthy to swim in.

To check the water quality, a test kit is required. This will then show the current water quality and what if anything needs to be adjusted.

Test Kits

Basic kits testing pH, free chlorine, total alkalinity and calcium hardness are available for low cost at Bunnings, Big W and Pool shops.

It is then simply a matter of taking a sample of pool water, a tablet or solution and matching the colour to the chart to obtain the reading.

Water samples should be collected in the morning and taken from 40-80 cm below the surface away from skimmer boxes and pool water return outlets. Samples should not be collected while adding water to the pool. Samples can also be collected directly in the test tubes; remove the caps, place fingers over the holes submerge 40-80 centimetres below the surface, remove fingers and let the tubes fill. Place finger back over the holes and bring to the surface for testing.

Writing down test results is a good idea so you have a record of how the water quality varies at different times of the year, saving you time in the future.

These are five simple key factors to maintaining the water quality in your swimming pool.

  • Filtration (covered under filters)
  • Sanitising/chlorination (covered in next section)
  • pH level
  • Total Alkalinity
  • Calcium Hardness

pH Level

This is the single most important element in maintaining water quality. pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. (A measure of Hydrogen Iron, H+ concentration in the water) pH is measured on a scale between 0-14 with 0 being most acidic and 14 being most alkaline. 7 is neutral.

Town water usually has a pH between 7 and 7.5 while orange juice has a pH around 4 and caustic soda around 13.

A pH reading between 7.2. and 7.6 is desirable for most pools. This range is most comfortable to the human eye and provides for optimum use of free chlorine while maintaining water that is not corrosive or scale forming.

pH levels below 7 can cause:

  • Chlorine residual to dissipate quickly
  • Eye irritation and stinging
  • Corrosion of pool equipment and metal fittings
  • Loss of Alkalinity
  • Etching of pool surfaces
  • Dissolved metal stains on pool surfaces

pH levels above 8 can cause:

  • Chlorine effectiveness to decrease considerably
  • Increased chlorine consumption
  • Scale formation on pool equipment
  • Water to become cloudy
  • Eye irritation

Pool pH can change a lot with pool usage, rain, addition of chemicals, algae and organic litter.

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Pool Sanitising/Disinfection

Once the pool is correctly balanced it needs to be sanitised to kill bacteria, algae and germs. This can be done with chlorine (liquid, granular, tablet or salt) bromine, ozone, ionic and bizanide.

hlorine is the most popular in one form or another followed by bromine, ozone and ionic. Chlorine is also the most cost effective and most readily available.

Chlorine

Chlorine is an oxidizer. It combines with oxygen to decompose things much the same as rust and fire. Rust is very slow, fire is quick to burn through wood taking minutes however chlorine oxidizes in fractions of a second once it contacts organic material such as bacteria, algae, perspiration. Larger organics such as insects, leaves, dirt will take days and demand high levels of chlorine so it is best to remove these. The more organic material the longer it takes with a minimum of 30 minutes recommended at the appropriate chlorine levels.

How well the chlorine works is dependent upon the quantity of chlorine in the pool and the pH of the pool water. If the chlorine level is too low it will get used up before it can do its job. If the pH is either too low or too high the chlorine becomes ineffective, no mater how much chlorine is added it will do little to nothing for the bacteria, algae and germs.

The ideal pH range for chlorine is between 7.2 and 7.6 with an acceptable range of 6.8 to 7.8.

When chlorine is added to water it changes into one of 2 compounds, hypochlorous acid or hypochlorite ions. Hypochlorous acid is a very effective sanitiser while hypochlorite ion is a very poor sanitiser. The pH of the water determines which compound the chlorine changes into. The higher the pH, the more hypochlorite ions formed i.e. at a pH of 8.5, 90% of all chlorine added becomes hypochlorite ion. At a pH of 6.0 a large amount of hypochlorous acid is being formed but at this pH the majority is going straight into the atmosphere and not sanitising your pool.

When looking after your pool, the two most important things are pH and sanitiser level. With chlorine it is important to know the “Free Chlorine” level/reading. This is the amount of chlorine in the water that is able to oxidize the bacteria, algae and other organic matter. Once the bacteria and organics have been oxidized the chlorine is either destroyed or changes form. If there is too much organic matter in the pool, particularly urine and perspiration the chlorine will change form and combine with these organics to create chloramines (combined chlorine).

Chlorine smell – is caused by chloramine compounds. Contrary to popular belief, it’s too little chlorine that causes the smell, not too much. Too little chlorine permits chloramine compounds to form. It is these compounds that have the strong smell affecting the eyes, nose and skin.

The combined chlorine level can be determined by testing the pool for Free Chlorine and total chlorine.

Total chlorine – Free Chlorine = Combined chlorine.

Combined chlorine levels should be as low as possible (less than 0.2 ppm) if not chlorine levels will need to be increased or a super chlorination (10 ppm free chlorine) may be required.

Enviro Pool Sticks also oxidize organics without adding any chemicals to the water considerably reducing the chlorine consumption, formation of chloramine compounds and pool care required.

The following types of chlorine are commonly used in swimming pools, although there are other types, these are the main ingredients.

Liquid Chlorine/Sodium Hypochlorite

Liquid chlorine is very easy to use, with no pre-mixing required. It is more commonly available in 5, 10, 25 or 200 litre containers at a strength of 12.5% available chlorine. It has a limited shelf life and should not be stored for more than a few weeks or purchased from suppliers who have a low stock turnover. It has a high pH of around 11-12 and as such will raise the pool pH. It is also unstabilised and so will loose strength rapidly. (Refer to chlorine stabiliser in following section.)

Calcium Hypochlorite/Cal Hypo

This is the most common and cheapest form of chlorine. It is a white granular or powder product containing 65% available chlorine. When added to water it quickly goes into solution but does not dissolve completely leaving a calcium residue. If mixed in a bucket this calcium residue can be discarded rather than added to the pool where it will fall to the bottom and add to the calcium hardness of the pool. It has a high pH of 11.7 is unstabilised (refer to chlorine stabiliser in following section) and must be stored in a sealed container away from moisture, oils, petrol and other chemicals. If stored properly it will last for months.

Trichloroisocyanuric Acid/Triclor

This is a stabilised chlorine where the stabiliser (cyanuric acid) has been added as opposed to sodium Hypochlorite and Cal Hypo. It is available in tablets or sticks containing 90% available chlorine. This product has a long shelf life, dissolves completely. It has a pH of 2.8 so will lower the pool pH and total alkalinity.

Sodium Dichloroisyanurate/Drichlor

This is a stabilised granular chlorine (refer to chlorine stabiliser in next section) with 63% available chlorine. Drichlor is easy to dissolve and has a long shelf life. The pH is also more neutral between 5.5 and 7.0. This will have little effect on pool pH and alkalinity.

Chlorine Stabiliser

All forms of straight chlorine rapidly dissipate in the presence of sunlight. In other words if the pool chlorine is unstabilised, free chlorine will be lost from the pool at a rate of up to 30% per hour in sunlight i.e. if the pool has 1 ppm or 100% at 9 am in the morning, by 10 am it will have 70%, by 11 am it will have 49% and by the afternoon there will be very little left and this does not allow for any used to oxidise bacteria and other organic material.

Stabilised chlorine or pools with stabilizer added stop this loss and maintains the free chlorine a lot longer. Stabiliser, pool conditioner, sunscreen etc are the common names used for cyanuric acid. On its own it is a white granular product that dissolves very slowly (2-5 days). It can be added to the pool in a number of ways.

  1. premixed in a bucket of water and slowly added through the skimmer box so it dissolves in the filter (do not backflush filter for 5 days).
  2. Broadcast over the water surface and allowed to settle on the pool floor (do not vacuum pool for 3-5 days).
  3. Add to a floating dispenser. Cyanuric acid does dissolve quicker in warm water.

While stabiliser slows down the loss of chlorine, the reaction of free chlorine with cyanuric acid produces a form of combined chlorine (chlorimide) which has reduced effectiveness hence the higher free chlorine level required in stabilised pools. The Chlorimide is still active enough though to show up as free chlorine residual when tested.

Although most pool test kits cannot test for Cyanuric acid proper stabilisation requires 30-50 ppm with a maximum of 60 ppm. Levels above 100 ppm will cause the chlorine to become ineffective and cloudy water. It is best to have too little than too much.

Stabiliser is a residual product in pool water and is only reduced by filter backwashing, rainfall, pool top up and splashing water out of the pool. Without these it should last 3-4 months.

Salt Chlorination

Another method of sanitising and chlorinating pools is to use salt/sodium chloride. When salt water passes through an electrolytic/electrolysis cell or salt water chlorinator the sodium gets separated from the chlorine. The chlorine then changes into one of 2 compounds, hypochlorous acid or hypochlorite ion depending upon the pH of the water. (Refer to chlorine in previous section). The remainder of the process is the same as using chlorine.

With salt chlorination it is important to maintain lower calcium levels to prevent calcium build up on the electrolytic cell/chlorine generator obstructing its operation. It is also important to maintain salt levels in the pool to avoid damage to the chlorine generator.

Salt water chlorinators are manufactured by a large number of suppliers, some are self cleaning, others not. They are all designed to operate with dissolved salt concentrations between 1800 – 6000 ppm (0.18 – 0.6%) with an average of 3000 – 5000 ppm. This is a lot less than sea water which has salt levels of 35,000 ppm.

Chlorine stabiliser can be used in salt water pools just as it can be in normal chlorine pools. If the chlorine levels get too low during usage it is best to use other forms of chlorine to lift levels straight away rather than having to wait several hours for the salt chlorinator.

The salt in the pool is only used up slowly by the salt water chlorinator and therefore only needs to be added to the pool 1-2 times/month. An Enviro Pool Stick is also recommended to considerably reduce the salt requirement even further, helping maintain a more balanced pool with much lower maintenance and running costs.

An important distinction of salt water pools over chlorine pools is they lack chloramines/combined chlorine. Chloramines cause the strong smell effecting the eyes, nose and skin. The process of generating chlorine also burns off chloramines.

Bromine

Bromine is used extensively as a sanitiser in spas, hot tubs, indoor pools, fountains and water features. It is chemically very similar to chlorine. Bromine reacts more slowly than chlorine so is a lot less subject to dissipation in sunlight. Like chlorine, bromine when added to water forms one of two compounds; hypobromous acid or hypobromite iron. Hypobromous acid is a very effective sanitiser while hypobromite iron is very ineffective. Like chlorine the pH determines which compound is formed although unlike chlorine hypobromous acid will be formed within a large pH range of 5.5 to 8.0.

The most commonly used bromine contains 28% chlorine. This has the advantage of burning off any hypobromite ions and helping to oxidize other organic particles. This combination product usually comes in tablet form for floating dispensers.

When bromine comes into contact with organic compounds such as urine and perspiration it forms Bromomines rather than Chloramines. These bromomines give off very littler odour have low eye irritation and are still very active sanitisers. All of the above reasons make bromine an excellent sanitizer in spas and hot tubs.

Bromine residual should be maintained between 2 and 4 ppm and is measured using the DPD # 1 test used to measure free chlorine. If your pool test kit does not include a bromine scale then bromine residual is approximately 2.25 times the reading on the chlorine scale.

Ozone

Ozone is a natural molecule found in the upper atmosphere. It is also a natural sanitizer that can be manufactured/generated on site where it is required. Once generated it is injected straight into the water. Ozone is a very active product lasting only a few minutes in the water after injection. No residual remains in the water so the pool water needs to be constantly treated or chlorine needs to be used to maintain a residual.

Ozone generators are specialised equipment and best set up by those specialised in this field.

Ozone pools (like any other pool) also greatly benefit from an Enviro Pool Stick helping oxidize any organic matter in the pool reducing the necessity to use chlorine.

Ionic

Ionic sanitisation is the use of ions and minerals such as copper and silver or magnesium and potassium to oxidize or kill bacteria, algae and other organic matter. Some of these ions and minerals have been used for centuries in treating drinking water and controlling disease and infection.

There are two main types or systems.

  1. Those using a combination of cooper and silver.
  2. Those using a combination of magnesium and potassium.

Copper and Silver – use in water sources is well documented. Copper is known to kill algae and provide an environment unsuitable for it to live while silver is known as bactericide. The system works by passing a low voltage DC (direct current) electrical current between two copper and silver electrodes installed in the filtration pipework. This produces low levels of cooper and silver in the water thereby killing the bacteria and algae. It is important to maintain a pH between 7.0 and 7.4 and balance the pool as required for chlorine and salt water pools.

The copper and silver electrodes/anodes are sacrificial (get used up) and do require replacing on average every 2 years. The pool water only needs to be tested every week to ensure correct levels of ions, pH and alkalinity.

An oxidiser such as Enviro Pool Stick, hydrogen peroxide, potassium mono-persulphate or chlorine is required from time to time to polish the water free of oils like suntan lotion, body fats, hair oils, perspiration, etc. The Enviro Pool Stick is best suited to this as it adds no chemicals or products to the pool, instead using the sun’s energy to oxidise the organic matter, further reducing the running costs and maintenance leaving a more stable, balanced pool.

Copper is also an essential element for humans. It is estimated that adult requirements are about 2.3 mg per person per day.

Magnesium and Potassium

A blend of magnesium chloride and potassium chloride is used to sanitise the pool. Potassium chloride is converted the same as sodium chloride in salt water pools releasing chlorine to provide a residual oxidizer. The combination of these irons is likened to mineral pools used around the world, particularly New Zealand for the relief of aches and pains and general healing of the body.

The process of combining these minerals also produces magnesium hydroxide (caustic soda) which stays in the water and raises the pH. This may not affect the process though.

Bags of mineral blend need to be added as required to maintain the nominated concentration (ppm). This may only be needed every few months depending upon rainfall, backwashing and pool usage, etc.

Magnesium is also an essential element required by humans for normal growth with a daily intake recommended.

Algae Control

Algae are tiny plants or seaweed that multiply and grow in swimming pools if nutrients are present and the level of chlorine or sanitizer is low or not maintained. They can multiply at a staggering rate from 1 spore to millions in hours.

There are 3 main types of Algae found in pools: Green, Mustard and Black.

Green Algae; is the most common algae found floating in swimming pools or coating pool surfaces. If untreated they will quickly turn the pool green.

Mustard Algea: has a greeny beige appearance and settles on pool walls causing a slimy yellow film.

Black Algea: appears in clumps attached to tile grout, corners, steps and pool surfaces. This algae grows into the grout and produces a wax providing an outer covering to protect itself and making it almost impossible to penetrate with chemicals and kill.

Solutions and Removal

  • Green Algae is the easiest to treat and remove. It can even be flocculated (adding a chemical to the surface of the pool) dropping all the suspended organic matter to the floor of the pool where it can be vacuumed to waste saving many hours/days of filtering and treatment.
  • Green algae is usually treated by super chlorination with 10-20ppm chlorine in the evening. Brush down and clean the walls and floor of the pool and run the filtration non-stop until the water clears maintaining the chlorine above 3ppm. An algaecide can also be used to kill the algae and will also help prevent the return after super chlorination.
  • Mustard algae is much more resistant to chemical treatment and clings more tightly to the pool walls than green algae. A specialised algaecide is best added in the morning to treat this algae. Walls and infected areas will then need to be vigorously brushed and vacuumed to waste. Filters can not remove this algae.
  • Black Algae is very difficult to treat and get rid of once it is in the pool. Spot treatments can be done using specialised algaecides and brushing with a stiff brush or stainless steel wire brush (being careful not to damage the pool surface) trichlor tablets can also be rubbed on areas to spot treat. In worst case scenarios the pool may need to be partially drained and cleaned.

With all algae’s it is best to avoid the problem in the first place by maintaining the required water quality and frequent cleaning of the pool floor and walls.

Algaecides are residual chemicals lasting between a week and six months.

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Pool Equipment

Pools can be low maintenance but not maintenance free. With a little regular maintenance and some automatic equipment your pool can provide hours of fun and enjoyment without big expense and a lot of work.

Automatic Pool Cleaners

These units come in all shapes and sizes and at varying expense. They do however save a lot of time and cost of chemicals. The more dirt and organic matter in the pool the greater the chlorine or sanitiser usage will be and the more it will cost to run the pool. Doing this manually takes a while and often just never gets done. It is best to have something (even a low cost unit) then to have nothing at all.

Automatic Pool Clarifier

There are many on the market, all except one add more chemicals to the water. The majority bind the organic matter together and flocculate/drop it to the floor where it can be vacuumed up. If this does not happen the attraction is lost and the particles go back into solution.

The Enviro Pool Stick does not add any chemicals to the water and in fact uses energy from the sun/light to oxidise organic mater such algae, suntan lotion, hair oils, body fats and perspiration. This saves a lot of chemicals, chlorine and sanitiser and reduces the pump and filter running times. This leads to a lot less time required to maintain your pool and a lot less cost. The Enviro Pool Stick requires no installation and lasts around 12 months.

Automatic Chlorination

Floating chlorine dispensers are the easiest way to automatically dispense chlorine in a pool. Most use stabilised chlorine tablets which slowly dissolve in the water. This way the pool is still getting chlorine added while you are away on holidays.

Automatic units can also be added to the filtration pipework. Chlorine is then automatically dispensed when the pump and filtration system is operated.

Salt Water Chlorinators

These units automatically manufacture chlorine adding it into the pool water return after the filter. They come in various sizes depending upon the pool size and the time available to operate.

Salt Water Chlorinators generally have a chlorinator cell consisting of parallel titanium plates coated with ruthenium or iridium. Older models have perforated or mesh plates rather than solid plates. The electrolytic process used to create the chloride from the salt also attracts calcium and other minerals to the plates. The plates therefore require cleaning in a mild acid solution (hydrochloric acid) to remove the buildup. Excessive buildup can considerably reduce the effectiveness of the cell.

Running the chlorinator for long periods with not enough salt in the pool can also strip the coating off the cell plates requiring their replacement.

Pump – Filtration Timer

Electrical timers can be purchased from just about any hardware store for a low cost. These can then be installed into the pump power point (as recommended by the manufacturer) and programmed to start and stop the pump and filtration system automatically at the required time on the desired days. This way it does not get forgotten and can operate for the required time.

All timers should be disconnected and power isolated or locked out before working on or servicing any electrical equipment or pool equipment.

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Enviro Pool Stick Selection

The Enviro Pool Stick is designed to manage pools up to 38,000 litres in volume. For pools over this size we recommend 2 pool sticks be placed in the pool or six pool stick minis placed in the skimmer box. Please contact us for pools over 65,000 litres.

Pools under 10,000 litres in volume can also use a single pool stick although a pool stick mini would be adequate depending upon the quality of the pool filtration and how often the pool is used and cleaned.

Summer Pools or Temporary Pools erected for a few months every year over summer can remove the pool stick at the end of summer, let it stand indoors and dry out then store it in a sealed box away from light ready for the following summer. In these circumstances the Enviro Pool Stick may last for 2 years.

If you are unsure please contact us.

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